By Eric Martin
Clunky and prone to failure, early spinning reels were bestowed a myriad of inglorious titles; coffee grinders, egg beaters, training reels, crutches, as well as a few that are a bit more, um, colorful. Drags designed for lily pads and largemouths were short lived when matched against the power of a steelhead in strong river currents. Blistering runs would leave the inadequate gears missing more teeth than the front row of a Willie Nelson concert, and the hulky steel housings were heavy and offered little protection to moisture, grime, and corrosion.
It wasn’t long before a spinning reel in one’s hand became an immediate identifier of steelheading naivety, and would bring the bearer the same level of respect and attention on the river as out of state plates and pink hip boots.
However, the merits of spinning reels cannot be disputed. Able to launch featherweight offerings greater distances than conventional reels, their inability to backlash, and user-friendly simplicity make them a favorite for many anglers.
Fast forwarding a few years, remarkable advancements in design and construction coupled with the popularity boom of lightweight techniques such as side-drifting and float fishing, have catapulted the once lowly spinning reel to the forefront of any serious steelheader’s ‘must have’ equipment list.
Previously, lack of available options greatly simplified the process of choosing a spinning reel, requiring little more than trying to find a model with the desired line capacity and from a manufacturer the consumer was familiar with. Flipping through retail catalogs or a quick search on the Internet will prove this is no longer the case. Hundreds of models are now available, all seemingly very similar, making the selection process rather intimidating. Taking a moment to learn the various roles and functions of the major components of a spinning reel will increase familiarity, as well as speed up the selection process. The following is a breakdown of what to look for, and why, when selecting your next spinning reel.
Size: The first order of business is determining appropriate reel size. Size of a reel relates to the capacity of line that it can hold, not the physical weight, which I’ll touch on a bit later. Every reel comes with a reference key that designates approximate capacities with various line weights, usually expressed as 185/8, 155/10, and so on. Personal preference for fishing from a boat, or banking smaller rivers is a reel capable of holding 150- to 170 yards of 10-pound line.
Also important to consider is the capacity should you prefer to fish braided lines. Braided lines are considerably smaller in diameter than their monofilament counterparts, thus occupying less space on the spool and allowing for increased capacity. This permits the user several notable options; the ability to use a higher pound test line yet maintain adequate capacity, or use, say 10-pound braid, but pack up to 40 percent more line onto the spool than allowed with 10-pound monofilament.
Keep in mind that capacity ratings are for a full spool of line! Breaking off snags and cutting out frayed sections of line over the course of a trip can quickly reduce a fresh, full spool to an inadequate capacity. Plan accordingly.
Body: The construction of the reel body (a.k.a “frame” or “housing”) plays a critical role in performance, longevity and price of a reel. Common materials include plastic, graphite, aluminum, magnesium and carbon fiber. From a performance standpoint, these materials play into the strength and weight of a reel.
A quality reel should be of sufficient strength that it exhibits no flex or play in its components when placed under a load. Lesser grade construction materials may seem lightweight and appealing fresh out of the box, but when spooled with line and stressed while fighting a fish, they torque and flex, hindering performance. Not good.
Weight is the other important aspect of reel construction. Consider that you’ve spent a couple hundred bucks on the top of the line, featherweight graphite rod, only to bog it down with a heavy reel? No! A top quality, well-built spinning reel can weigh less than nine ounces, with a few as light as seven. Not only will a lighter reel achieve better overall rod balance, it will dramatically reduce fatigue and stress placed on your wrist, arm and shoulder.
When physically inspecting a reel in a store, hold the reel foot tight with one hand, then use the other to pull, shake and squeeze various parts of the reel. It should feel tight and secure, with all components fitting together well. Beware of non-functionally important ‘upgrades’ that do little aside from increasing reel price. Lower grade reels will try to sell such features to draw attention away from lower quality critical components. A genuine unicorn horn handle may look sweet, but it’s not going to help land fish faster.
Bearings: As I type this, I can’t help but notice an antique specimen of a spinning reel I found on the river years ago which now adorns my desk. It had lived a hard life, though despite its tattered appearance, a sticker on the spool remains, reading, “One Ball Bearing.” Cutting edge for its day, it wouldn’t even reach the honorable mention list by today’s standards.
Bearings are one of the most hyped aspects of spinning reel performance, but it is important to know that not all bearings are created equal. The placement of ball bearings in the body of a reel increases overall stability, while providing buttery smooth operation. Typically, the more bearings assigned to this task, the better. The only caveat to this line of thinking is the quality of the bearings. Look past the flashy “x Bearings!” claim on the box, and instead look for descriptors of the bearings, specifically, terms such as stainless steel or corrosion resistant.
The number of bearings will play heavily into the price of the reel, and as long as they are corrosion resistant, I’d recommend paying as much as you can spare for the highest number of bearings you can find. Avoid models relying on less than 4 bearings, and absolutely anything with “bushings” in its description.
Drag: Often the difference between a memorable trophy and crushing defeat, a reliable and smooth operating drag system is a must, especially when using super light lines and finesse fishing techniques.
Spinning reels commonly offer two options for drag location; front drag and rear drag. Front drag, controlled by a knob on the front end of the spool, are considerably more popular and reputable due in large part to their larger, more durable washers. Rear drag, located on the back end of the reel body, seems convenient from the standpoint that it can be easily adjusted while fighting a fish. However, the smaller washers utilized by these systems provide diminished performance when compared to front drag models, not to mention they typically add considerable physical size to the reel itself.
Drag systems can be further broken down into two groups: wet drag and dry drag. Inside each drag system is a series of washers. As the drag adjustment knob is manipulated, it acts to increase or decrease pressure on these washers, which in turn applies varying pressure to the reel spool, affecting the force needed to pull line from the spool.
Wet drags systems are very common in most spinning reels. Featuring several felt or fiber washers that have been impregnated by a lubricant, these drag systems are simple, relatively cheap and easy to maintain.
Dry drag systems are gaining popularity as they require less force to get the drag initiated, and produce a more consistent drag over the range of its settings, with little variance in pressure and slip from fast, extended, heat building runs. Dry systems are usually sealed from water and grime intrusion, and it is imperative that they remain dry to function properly.
Gears: Gears play a key role in the retrieval speed, power and smooth operation of a spinning reel. Crack open a cheap reel and you are likely to find undersized, low quality brass, raw steel or even plastic gears. These are a ticking time bomb when matched against the abuse a steelhead can dish out.
Look for models that utilize large, corrosion resistant stainless steel or ‘marine grade’ materials. Teeth should be of sufficient size as to not be easily stripped or damaged. A great feature offered by some manufacturers is the use specially treated gears for added durability.
Differences in size and orientation of the gears are responsible for a reels “gear ratio.” Expressed by ratings such as 5.1:1 or 6.3:1, these ratios represent the speed at which line is retrieved with each turn of the reel handle. For a reel with a 5.1:1 ratio, the rotor will make 5.1 revolutions around the spool with each full turn of the handle. Similar to the gearing in your car, smaller gear ratios produce higher torque. Higher ratios equate to more speed, less torque. Solid middle ground options are those with ratios in the 5:1 range.
Bail & Rotor: I’m lumping bail and rotor functions together, as they work as a team towards the same common goal: line control. The rotor assembly should rotate smoothly and quietly around the around the oscillating spool, as it distributes line uniformly across the entire spool area. Inspect the rotor for slop, play and overall strength. A weak rotor under a heavy load will fail to rotate uniformly and could contact the inside of the spool, affecting reeling performance and line distribution.
Line contacts the bail roller at the junction of the bail and the rotor assembly. Commonly, a guide sits over a roller bearing, which spins under the tension of the line. This helps reduce both friction and twist on the line. Some reels rely simply on a stationary guide, or use poor quality roller bearings that fail and produce a stationary guide, which can quickly be damaged by line wear, especially when using braided lines. Avoid these reels.
Beefed up bail wires built out of super lightweight materials are much less prone to damage, strain and deformation. The bail should trip crisp and clean with minimal pressure when engaged by the reel handle. A common failure point within the bail mechanism is the tiny bail spring that helps flip the bail back into the engaged/retrieve position. If this spring breaks, you must manually open and close the bail with each cast. Many models now feature stronger bail springs, and I strongly urge you seek them out.
Spool Design: The spool acts to not only hold line, but affects castability as well as line twist. Friction robs a cast of distance, and the design of a spool; depth, length, width, and the skirt, or leading edge of the spool, all play into how much friction in inflicted on line leaving the spool. Shallow cupped larger diameter spools and shallow, long spools produce less friction and offer the greatest casting distance. Spools with super smooth anodized finishes or specially treated skirts will also reduce friction, and add casting distance.
The bane of spinning reels is line twist. Created by numerous factors, one way to help combat it is by choosing reels with larger diameter spools, which reduce the number of loops placed into the line. Larger diameter spools also generate greater line retrieval rates than smaller spools match to the same gear ratio.
The use of braided line is another factor incorporated into many spool designs. Only recently have manufacturers acknowledged consumer interest in braided lines by creating spools that don’t require anti-slip measures to be taken prior to spooling. Even when tightly spooled, the super slick nature of super braids would cause all the line to slide around standard spools when under tension. Preventing this first required spooling a short section of monofilament line backing or placing a piece of tape on the spool prior to winding on the line, to provide ‘bite’ for the braid. Now, many spools feature spiraled grooves or ridges that prevent slip, allowing the straight spooling of braided line.
Finally, nearly all spinning reels come standard with a spare spool. This is incredibly convenient as it provides an angler the option of changing different weights or types of lines in seconds, on the water, should the need arise. A quality spare spool should be the same size and constructed from the same material as the primary spool.
Handle: The reel handle should be of sufficient length to provide plenty of clearance for your hand away from the spinning bail and the rod itself. Some have multi-pieced handles, which always seem to work loose at inopportune times. Look for a solid, single arm design that doesn’t flex. The grip knob should be large enough that it can be quickly and easily located without looking, and constructed from a material that won’t get slick from mud or slime.
Anti Reverse: It is imperative a spinning reel possess an instant anti reverse mechanism. This prevents any backward rotation of the spool during a hook set. If the anti reverse feature allows any backwards play of the spool or handle, avoid that reel!
Some anglers prefer a ‘direct drive’ or backward reeling option to extend long drifts or to be used instead of drag. Most manufacturers address this by adding a switch on the reel that disengages the anti reverse.
Maintenance: Routine maintenance will keep reels spinning happily for years, but performing thorough maintenance on a spinning reel can prove challenging. Typically, spinning reels have more parts than standard baitcasters. Factor in their smaller size, tighter tolerances, and compact housing constraints, and servicing these parts would test even Gandhi’s level of patience.
Many spinning reels feature lube ports and easily removable access plates to allow for easier service, but care must be taken when performing this most basic of service. More harm can be done using inadequate lubricants and in improper places, especially when done so in excess, than performing no service at all. Be sure to read user manuals to determine proper cleaning procedures. I would also recommend sending reels in to qualified repair shops for a thorough, professional cleaning at least once a season if they are being used heavily.
Selecting your next spinning reel should go beyond appearance, brand, construction materials and price. Take the time to physically handle the reel. Is it comfortable? Does it fit your hand? Are all the various parts easy to access and manipulate? Bring your rod into the store and ask if you can mount potential models for an accurate feel of balance and comfort. It may seem like a lot of work for ‘just a spinning reel’, but taking the time to do so will reward you for years to come!